This is a much delayed write-up of our Cornwall getaway in July 2021. I was reminded of it as we’re about to embark on another Cornish break soon! This is the first part of our adventures there.
The weather forecast did not bode well for our early summer holiday in the South West. It looked like rain every day, so we steeled ourselves, packed wet weather clothing and decided to make the best of it. What other outlook could you have in the 18 months since the world turned upside down anyway? As it turned out the rain only really punctuated the start and very last day of our holiday and we were so lucky to have glorious sunshine otherwise.
Off south we went, G having just come off a night shift and me still bleary-eyed as he had insisted on a pre-dawn start so we could ‘make full use’ of our first day there. Needless to say, we were knackered on our drive down and arrived late anyway as we had to make numerous stops for naps along the way. Never again!
It’s become a mini tradition now to stop by Inkie’s Smokehouse at Golitha Falls on the way down. They had a new addition to the menu of Po’ boys so I got a Louisiana (Cajun seasoned king prawns with spicy remoulade) which was filled with a generous portion of juicy and sweet prawns. G went with a Cajun burger which was a hefty one filled with cajun-spiced burger patties, jalapeños, cheese, hot sauce and all the usual trimmings. Appetites sated, we continued to Falmouth which was to be our base for the week.
Holiday accommodation this year in Cornwall has skyrocketed in price to make up for the shortfall in business last year. It was a challenge finding one that wasn’t too expensive but also didn’t look rundown and depressing. We usually stay along the north coast, but this time settled on an apartment in a holiday village close to Falmouth on the south coast called Pendra Loweth. First impressions on driving in were great; we were impressed with how well-maintained and clean the complex was, and with the beautiful planting of native and subtropical plants along the road and stream meandering its way through the area. Our apartment had three bedrooms, a bathroom, a well-appointed kitchen in an open plan living/dining area and even a BBQ set round back, with a designated numbered parking space so we didn’t have to drive around looking for parking everyday.
A quick rest and it was out to town to Harbour Lights for a late fish and chip dinner. We passed Swanpool Beach only 5 minutes from our apartment and made a mental note to visit it during the week. We had booked a table at the restaurant, but needn’t have worried as there were only a couple of tables occupied close to end of dinner service. The traditional fish and chips were satisfactory. Not the biggest fish portion I’ve had but it was fresh and not greasy and the chips were fluffy. But the fish-shaped plate was too small and made eating from it inconvenient. Beck’s at Carbis Bay is probably the best we’ve had in Cornwall, and we’re thoroughly spoiled to have The Cod’s Scallops close to home as well, so we have high standards when it comes to fish and chips.
We did a short walk around the harbour in the setting sun before retiring for the evening, noting PhoBar and RoBo Bar and Canteen serving Vietnamese and Japanese food respectively as potential meal spots during the week.
The next morning we slept in and skipped breakfast as we were in for a treat. Sunday roast at the Star & Garter in Falmouth is legendary – huge portions of meat surrounded with the tallest puffiest Yorkie puds, plenty of veg, roast potatoes and lots of gravy. Our starters of asparagus with brown crab aioli and crispy egg and monkfish scampi with tartar sauce and pickled cucumber set the scene for a truly decadent meal. Last time we came we both went for the roast beef as our mains, and oh my I have never eaten beef sliced that thick but still remain so tender before. This time G stuck with beef and I went for roast pork belly and that was even better. It was fall apart tender and so flavoursome. I’ve never been able to try their sticky toffee pudding for dessert, but I will try my best to next time! The dining room is all cosy, wooden beams and floors and service is really friendly. The view is pretty special too – the pub is perched on a hill and overlooks Carrick Roads waterways opening into the sea.
It was a sort of grey, rainy day not conducive to much outdoor activity so we mooched around the shops in Falmouth and had a little explore of Swanpool Beach before heading back to the apartment for the evening.
The next day dawned bright and beautiful so we headed to the lovely town of St Ives. We first dropped in to Leach Pottery where we picked up a vase for a wedding gift and some mugs for ourselves. G also found a perfect-sized mug for his favourite flat white coffee. Parking for town was difficult and after going round our usual parking spots we ended up opposite Leach Pottery again and parked there. Whilst we normally love walking around the cobbled lanes and darting in and out of cool independent shops I’m afraid this time the crowds made it too overwhelming.
We retreated to The Island, an outcrop of land slightly outside of town set high on cliffs overlooking Porthmeor Beach on one side and Porthgwidden Beach on the other. Sitting comfortably on a bench absorbing the unexpected sunshine, we watched beachgoers on the sands below and lifeguard training in action. We then strolled round the headland enjoying those famous jewelled hues of seawater, contrasting against the dark tones of the cliffs.
We’ve been to St Ives so many times we know where all the good shops are, and it’s such a brilliant place if you’re planning to get some lovely souvenirs for home. Poppy Treffry’s wash bags are a firm favourite, and this time I picked up some lovely smelling hand wash and moisturiser from them. Roly’s Fudge is everywhere in Cornwall and we bought an assortment bag for G’s father, and then I went across the road to get some nautical-themed coasters from Hudson’s. We didn’t hang around though, these were targeted shops for specific products and we were in and out in no time.
Artists have long been attracted to St Ives, and so the art scene is a thriving one where really high quality galleries abound. One of my favourites to visit is the New Craftsman Gallery. This time, they were busy setting up a new exhibition of ceramics by Jin Eui Kim and I was most captivated by how tactile and mesmerising his new vases were. I resisted temptation however and popped into Porthminster Gallery next door instead. I do think they have ended up slightly disadvantaged when they traded in the plus of having a more central location with the negative of a much smaller gallery space. All their works are online, which is not reflective of what is displayed in the gallery. There were a couple of ceramic sculptures I had in mind from browsing online prior, but a print by Trevor Price got me hooked with its wit and quirkiness and so that came home with me instead. Just goes to show how most art is better appreciated in person.
We were so looking forward to burgers from Blas Burgerworks for dinner but were crushed when we realised they were closed that day. Clouds then started to gather so we ended the day with a walk at Gwithian Beach, enjoying the fresh sea air and the expanse of sands with Godrevy Lighthouse in the distance.
The next day we visited Glendurgan Garden, a National Trust property. We caved and got an NT subscription this year, after years of begrudgingly paying for parking at NT beaches and properties. It made for a pleasant wander for a couple of hours, but I daresay Trebah Garden next door was more impressive in its plant varieties. Both gardens slope gently into valleys that open up into beaches, Durgan Beach and the village being at the end of Glendurgan.
Off to the east on the coastal path is Grebe Beach, a peaceful pebbly beach ideal for contemplation over the quiet waters of Helford River. G enjoyed skimming stones and I enjoyed the scenery by taking lots of photos. For a late lunch, we had a little picnic at one of the tables outside the garden’s entrance, before heading back into Falmouth for another wander around town in drier weather. Our feet needed a little rest after so we chilled out in Indidog with a coffee each. I believe Indidog do a very good brunch but we didn’t manage to fit it in this time.
For dinner we ordered and took away RoBo’s House Special ramen with crispy caramel belly pork. And because G didn’t think that was enough, we ordered the VietNom too, a banh mi filled with soy caramel pork, pork pate and kimchi mayo. We held off having dinner until later but couldn’t resist the banh mi and had an impromptu picnic at Swanpool Beach, enjoying the last of the day’s sunlight before heading home. The sandwich roll was very good, and we probably should have ordered more of that and the chicken option. Later that night we had our ramen in the apartment. The pork was well marinated and flavoursome and the noodles were topped with a generous selection of vegetables. The broth was tasty too, but it was a measly portion, barely enough to cover the noodles and really not what you would expect to be served in a restaurant or even takeaway meal at all.
My favourite day of the week has to be the day we visited a ‘secret’ beach on Helford River. It involved a 30 minute scenic walk through woods along the coast but was well worth the effort. There are no facilities, so come prepared with food and water. Due to its secluded location, we only ever shared the beach with two other people at a time that afternoon. A couple who sat on the rocks at the far end of the beach who then left to continue their walk, then a couple who came by boat and anchored off the beach but didn’t come ashore and another later on who did stay for a while but it was all very pleasant and convivial.
Every year we go to Cornwall I yearn to swim in the sea but chicken out as the water is too cold for someone who was born and raised in a tropical country. But this year, this year my resolve was firm and I bought a wetsuit, donned it and swam like a fish in those glorious clear blue waters under the sun and was in seventh heaven. There were nearby rocks off shore to explore and I even saw a school of small fish in the crystal clear waters. We had a simple picnic lunch of sandwiches and chocolate and hurried back when our car parking was running out. Best beach day ever.
To make full use of the glorious weather, we headed down to Kynance Cove. The crowds there just highlighted how peaceful that cove on the river was. We didn’t spend any time on the beach this time except to walk past it to sit up on the cliff overlooking the sea. The views as usual were spectacular in that part of the world, made even more so with the weather gods smiling down on us that day.
G was due a belated birthday meal and we’d decided to have it whilst we were on holiday. I’d read about The Longstore in Truro (and the secret beach!) on The Cornish Life, a blog written by Anna who lives and works in Cornwall. I highly recommend her website. It is packed with beautiful photography and useful insider tips on the most beautiful locations and eateries in Cornwall.
The Longstore definitely lived up to expectations. We had a delicious dinner and a most enjoyable evening filled with excited conversation on what else to do on our holiday. For starters G had frickles and dip (battered pickles with dijonnaise) and chargrilled steak bruschetta. I went for the day’s special of monkfish tail with cucumber pickles and a delicious sauce that I can’t remember now. Mains were a fillet steak for G which came with a roasted onion and garlic puree, crispy shallots and a roasted tomato. I had squid ink linguine with white crab, topped with pangrattato. We both thoroughly enjoyed our starters and G’s steak was excellent according to him. My pasta was delicious too, if a tad on the salty side. After skipping dessert at our roast lunch, I had to fit it in this time so I had the Cornish milk panna cotta with rose water jelly, dark chocolate shavings and a pistachio and cardamom shortbread. It was light and refreshing and not too sweet. A perfect end to a really good meal.
The drive back to Falmouth though was another affair. Heading out to Truro we had no problem at all, but the main road to Falmouth was closed on the way back and those stupid diversion signs were totally useless, leading us back to exactly where we started from, right back to the start of the road block, not the end of it. It took three go’s (!) driving around dark Cornish lanes in the dead of night before I found another route home. That was stressful to put it mildly, but we’ve chalked it up to another one of those ‘do you remember..’ things that we’ll reminisce over in the future.
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